The Real Deal on Culture in Marketing
- BFA Agency

- 5 days ago
- 7 min read

The world is a small place now. A brand in London can sell shoes to someone in rural India with a few clicks. That's great for business but it comes with a catch most brands don't think about until it's too late. When you cross borders, you're not just shipping products. You're stepping into people's lives, their traditions, their sacred spaces and if you take something that isn't yours without asking, they will make you pay for it.
Appreciation vs. Appropriation
Think of it like a dinner party. Appreciation is being a guest, you listen, you ask before you touch anything, you bring something to the table. Appropriation is breaking into the kitchen, stealing the family recipe, and selling it down the street with your name on it.
The line is really about power and permission. Cultural appreciation means learning the history behind something and honoring the people who created it. It means giving credit and making sure the money flows back to those communities.
Appropriation is the opposite. A powerful brand strips a symbol from a marginalized group, slaps it on a product, makes millions, and the original creators see nothing. Meanwhile, they might still face discrimination for the very thing the brand is profiting from. That's the part that stings the most.
Why This Is a Business Problem, Not Just a PR Problem
Some executives still think cultural backlash is just social media noise. A quick apology, a few days offline, and it blows over. This is dangerously wrong.
A 2020 global survey found that 69% of consumers will actively boycott a brand they consider culturally insensitive. That's not a niche group of activists. That's the majority of your customers. Younger shoppers in particular are ruthless about this. They research brands, they talk to each other, and they vote with their wallets.
Dolce & Gabbana learned this the hard way. In 2018 they ran a campaign in China showing a Chinese model struggling to eat Italian food with chopsticks. It came across as patronizing and mocking. The backlash cost them an estimated $500 million in sales and got them effectively banned from one of the most lucrative luxury markets on earth. That's a steep price for a few bad ads.
The Hall of Shame
Pepsi's 2017 "Live for Now" ad is the textbook case of a brand trying to look socially conscious and achieving the exact opposite. The ad featured Kendall Jenner handing a can of Pepsi to a police officer during what looked like a Black Lives Matter protest. The officer smiles, the crowd cheers. Bernice King, daughter of Martin Luther King Jr., publicly called them out. The ad was pulled within 24 hours. Pepsi burned $5 million in production costs and torched their credibility along with it. The internal post-mortem revealed the entire campaign was made in-house with no outside voices. Nobody in the room had the lived experience to say "this is a terrible idea." H&M made a simpler but equally damaging mistake. They photographed a Black child wearing a hoodie that said "Coolest Monkey in the Jungle." The word "monkey" has been used as a racial slur against Black people for centuries. The internet caught it in minutes, celebrity partners like The Weeknd publicly cut ties. Protesters stormed H&M stores in South Africa. There is no universe in which that image should have made it past a single review meeting.
Gucci released a sweater in 2018 that covered the face and featured a large red cut-out mouth. It was indistinguishable from blackface imagery.
Prada had a line of figurines with dark skin and exaggerated red lips, again unmistakably echoing racist caricatures, both brands had to pull the products and issue apologies. But an apology does not undo the fact that they turned symbols of racial pain into luxury accessories.
Victoria's Secret sent model Karlie Kloss down the runway in 2012 wearing a full Native American war bonnet. In many tribes, these headdresses are sacred objects earned through acts of courage. They are not costume accessories, Victoria's Secret had to cut the segment from their televised show, but the images circulated anyway.
Language blunders follow a similar pattern. Honda named a car the "Fitta" in Nordic countries without checking that it was local slang for female genitalia. They rebranded it the Honda Jazz.
Wang Computers once tried to run the slogan "Wang Cares" in the UK, not realizing how it would sound to British ears. Pepsi launched a bright blue can in Southeast Asia during Ramadan, unaware that light blue is associated with mourning and funerals in the region.
None of these required deep research, five minutes with a local speaker would have saved all of it.
The Brands That Got It Right
Nike's 2016 "Da Da Ding" campaign wanted to reach women in India. Instead of casting American models and calling it diverse, they built a high-energy music video around real Indian female athletes, used Bollywood-style music, and made the whole thing feel like it came from inside the culture rather than being projected onto it. It got 7 million views in a week because Indian women felt seen and respected, not used.
Coca-Cola's "Share a Coke" campaign replaced their logo with the most popular names in each country. Common Chinese names in China. British names in the UK. It made people feel like the brand belonged to them rather than being sold to them. Sales jumped because the personalization felt real.
The gold standard is genuine partnership. Designer Anita Dongre's Grassroot label works directly with Indian artisans, pays them fairly, puts their faces on the runway, and treats them as the real experts. She's not taking their craft and crediting herself for it. She's amplifying them.
Ralph Lauren's "Artist in Residence" program partnered with Naiomi Glasses, a seventh-generation Navajo weaver. She designed the collection, the symbols were used correctly. The money flowed back into her community. Canada Goose works with Inuit artist Saimaiyu Akesuk and gives 100% of proceeds from limited-edition prints back to the Inuit community.
These are not marketing stunts. They are business relationships built on mutual respect.
Context Is Everything
In 2022, Dior released a skirt that was nearly identical to the traditional Chinese "Mamianqun" or horse-face skirt and described it as a "hallmark Dior silhouette" with no mention of China at all. Chinese consumers organized protests outside Dior stores. The issue was not just that they borrowed the design. It was that they erased the origin and called it their own. That feels like theft because it is.
Religious symbols require particular care. Brands have put the image of Buddha on bath mats and sacred names on sneakers. In many cultures, the feet are considered unclean. Placing a holy symbol on footwear is a serious insult that a single conversation with someone from that faith would have prevented.
Dior also had to pull an ad for their "Sauvage" perfume that featured a Native American dancer in sacred regalia. The word "sauvage" itself has historically been used as a slur against Indigenous people. The entire concept was built on imagery and language that caused real harm to the community it was supposedly celebrating.
The Business Case for Diverse Teams
Every single one of the failures above had one thing in common. The people making the decisions all looked the same and came from the same background.
If Pepsi had brought in voices from the communities their ad was depicting, someone would have stood up and said no.
Diversity is not just a moral obligation, it's a quality control mechanism. A room full of people from the same background has enormous blind spots. One person with relevant lived experience can catch a catastrophic mistake before it costs you half a billion dollars.
The "first voice" principle takes this further. Instead of a brand telling the world what it's like to live in a particular culture, they hire someone from that culture to tell the story themselves.
The Nike India campaign worked because the voices in it were authentic. People can tell the difference between a story that comes from inside a community and one that was written about them from the outside.
How to Stay on the Right Side
Research before you borrow anything. Find out what a pattern means, who created it, and whether it's sacred. If you can't answer those questions, you shouldn't be using it. A mood board is not research.
Collaborate rather than just getting inspired. If you want Navajo patterns, hire a Navajo weaver. Pay them properly, give them creative input, and credit them publicly. This turns a risky situation into a story worth telling.
Check your language. Slogans that sound clever in English can be vulgar, offensive, or just confusing in another language. Always have a native speaker review your copy, not for literal translation but for the cultural weight the words carry.
Give back financially. If you're profiting from a culture's aesthetic, some of that money should return to that community through partnerships, fair wages, or direct investment. It's the difference between being a business partner and being a thief.
When you do get it wrong, own it immediately. Pull the product, issue a clear apology without excuses, and explain specifically how you're going to change. People are far more willing to forgive a brand that takes responsibility than one that deflects and delays.
The Real Reason People Get Angry
When you see a wave of public outrage over a brand's cultural misstep, it's tempting to call it an overreaction. But for many communities, their cultural heritage is one of the few things that hasn't been taken from them. Their land, their language, their political power. The art and the traditions are what remain. When a wealthy brand swoops in and turns those traditions into a profit center without acknowledgment or permission, it feels like a final insult on top of centuries of loss.
That's not an overreaction, its a completely rational response to exploitation. Understanding that is the first step toward being a brand that people actually want to support.
The Bottom Line
Cultural appropriation is a financial risk and a reputational one. It can undo years of brand-building in a single news cycle but it's entirely avoidable.
The brands that understand culture as a relationship rather than a resource are the ones that build genuine loyalty. They treat communities as partners, not source material.
They listen before they borrow, they pay before they profit. In a world where everyone has a camera and a platform, that approach isn't just ethical. It's the only smart way to do business.



